My kitchen counters are yellow and warped. As a part of the kitchen’s update, I have been planning on replacing the countertop. My dream countertop is a blue and white speckled Corian model. However, at $75 - $77 a square foot, my 31 square foot countertop becomes prohibitively expensive. I’ve looked at laminate, but, although the price is right, I haven’t been able to find any I like. I am now seriously considering making my own countertops.
For a do it yourself project, I prefer tile, rather than laminate. Tile is very durable and I can get it in almost any color. On the downside, a glass dropped on it will shatter and it can be difficult to clean debris from the grout lines.
It looks like I can create a countertop from 3/4 inch plywood topped with concrete backerboard and then tile. My counter is L-shaped, so I won’t have to do any fancy cutting, except for the sink. I may have to add additional braces to support the weight of the tiles. I think the hardest part of this project will be removing the old countertop and disconnecting/connecting the sink.
Some questions I have:
1. How should I cut the two pieces of the “L”? With a mitered joint? Is a mitered joint necessary if it won’t show? Should the backerboard be cut along the same lines? How should I join the two legs of the “L”? Glue? A screwed-on brace below?
2. Should the backerboard be sealed before applying the adhesive and tile? I’ve read that sealant is recommended in moisture-prone areas, but I’ve also read that the sealant may prevent the adhesive from making a good bond between the tiles and the backerboard.
3. Can the backsplash tiles be applied directly to the wall, or should I put backerboard on the wall? I did read that backerboard should be applied to the counter edges, before tiling there.Scott – I know you’ll have some words of advice!